Fashion Week SS17
The time has come for us to enjoy another season of fashion week. Over 5 days we will be working with some of the biggest names in the hairdressing industry. For the latest news on all the hair trends, live from the catwalk, read our daily round-ups from beauty journalist Bella Blissett.
DAY 4: FASHION WEEK SS17
As SS17 Fashion Week nears an end, the trend for super simple, youthful styles seems to have been the headline story of the season. “SS17 is all about simple, neutral styles,” says Duffy, referencing the work of Jil Sander and Helmut Lang during the early ‘90s as key sources of inspiration.
So it was that fresh, simple hair continued at Roksanda as James Pecis created a “nice, clean texture at the top and a beautiful wave through the back section”. As has proved to be the case so often this Fashion Week, Tecni.ART Pli remained the star of the styling show. Prepping the entire hair in this wonder product, he applied two further layers to the sides to keep them neat and narrow. Creating a slight centre parting, he eeked out the gentle movement of the lengths, added Tecni.ART Liss Control for hold and shine – and finished with a misting of Infinium Hairspray.
At Erdem, the woman is always more complicated. Season after season, the narrative underpinning the look seems to get ever darker and more sinister.
“This season, Erdem was inspired by a 16th century dress that was found on a shipwreck,” said Anthony Turner. “The woman wearing the collection is on a journey - trudging through the shallow sea to get to land after her ship has been wrecked”. To bring the character to life, he mixed Tecni.ART Pli with Wild Stylers Beach Waves and blasted the hair dry to achieve a beachy, outdoorsy texture, creating a strong centre parting as he went. Leaving a few strands free around the face, he bent the hair around a small tong and tied the lengths into two pigtails. Having braided each one, he rubbed them between his palms to create a “destroyed”, “wispy” feel and flipped, wrapped and pinned them around each other, until they lay flat against the base of the head in a tousled twirl. To finish this twisted take on prettiness, he tied a length of black fabric around each girl’s head and knotted it in a bow beneath one ear.
At Joseph, there was a similarly pared-down aesthetic, albeit this time with a nod to handsome masculinity. Prepping the hair with Tecni.ART Pli and Tecni.ART Volume Lift, Duffy blow-dried the front section straight forwards to help it defy gravity. Keeping comb marks visible with a misting of Infinium Hairspray, he pulled the hair to one side in a low parting with a hint of gentlemanly lift at the hairline, and then tied the ends in a neat ponytail at the base of the head.
DAY 3: FASHION WEEK SS17
If the story of LFW SS17 hair so far has been one of natural, easy effortlessness – and today it became clear how the theme would evolve into a more cohesive, new season trend. For the word of day three was “fresh”.
After seasons of “fresh” healthy skin on the catwalks, it seems that hair is now taking its cue from make-up and creating looks that come with a cool, carefree attitude, backed up with a welcome sense of wholesomeness.
At Anya Hindmarch, the most surprising reference of the week so far came in the form of Sam McKnight’s futuristic style inspired by the bandages worn after having a facelift. A trio of Tecni.ART Fix Design, Infinium Hairspray and Wet Domination Shower Shine were used to create a super smooth, super shiny hair texture, that was straightened and slicked into a low ponytail before neoprene “bandages” were crisscrossed around the head and neck.
TOPSHOP UNIQUE is however, rarely a label to conform. This Fashion Week has already witnessed the return of tight, ‘80s spiral curls’ at Ong-Oaj Pairam. Duffy picked up the mantle at TOPSHOP, creating a look that he named “new wave glamour”. Saturating the hair in Tecni.ART Pli, he added Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse and blasted it dry, lifting the hairline section as he went. A small curling iron was run down the shaft of four-inch, twisted sections to create “a spiral perm made modern”. Flicking the front area to one side to add a hint of sexy nonchalance held in place with Infinium, he misted the rest of the hair with Tecni.ART Pli then raked his fingers through the curls...
At Peter Pilotto, Anthony Turner created “light, gorgeous, healthy hair” that spoke of this girl’s naivety. Almost like it had never been touched, hair appeared freshly washed and floaty. Blow-drying in Tecni.ART Pli, Turner created a strong centre parting, tucked the hair behind the ears – and left a veil of baby hairs to drift freely over the girls’ faces as they walked down the catwalk. Taking a one-inch section from each side, he fed them under the lengths until they met at the back of the head – then tied them together. A simple trick to be re-created at home, the effect was invisible from behind – but successfully kept the sides neat, narrow and tucked behind the ears. Finished with Mythic Oil, this was a look of beautiful perfection.
J JS Lee
“Fresh hair” was also how Adam Reed described this season’s take on a low-key, undone style at J. JS Lee. Here, Reed imagined a grown up take on schoolgirl hair – there was a nonchalance and worn-in feel throughout. “Every girl is slightly different, but always just a better version of herself,” said Reed as he added the merest hint of a bend to mid-lengths. Relinquishing brushes, he and his team used their hands alone to “push” Wild Stylers Crepage de Chignon, Infinium Hairspray and Tecni.ART Density Material into the lengths – just as a make-up artist would do when applying foundation to the skin. The result was a look that was undone, seemingly free from products – and utterly effort free.
Facchini’s collection was inspired by an “architectural installation he saw in a Canada; and in quite contrast the hair reflected the ingenuity of the blow-fish,” said Bianca Tuovi at CLM. The braids throughout the back of the head characterised the spine - while the freely flowing hair at the back with its sharp texture replicated the thorny dangerous spikes. To get the look lashings of Tecni.ART Shower Shine was used alongside Pli. The style was finished with Tecni.ART Next Day Hair to add further texture and finally Infinium was used for shine and hold.
DAY 2: FASHION WEEK SS17
Day two at London Fashion Week SS17 and already some key hair trends are emerging.
For Richard Phillipart, a more thoroughly drenched look was called for at Milo Maria. Blow-drying in Tecni.ART Pli to remove all volume from the roots, he tucked the hair behind the ears, covered it in a net and used a diffuser over the top to maintain a “narrow silhouette”. Braiding and unbraiding sections, he created that soft, natural texture that’s been the ongoing story of the week so far. Keeping the mid-lengths and ends matte and dry, Phillipart’s twist came in the lashings of Wet Domination Shower Shine he applied to the front section to create a “rained on” effect.
At Asli Polat, Phillipart of the Boutique Salon & Spa, again wanted a look that was “soft, effortless and romantic” at the front, but added a tougher, grungier feel at the back. Saturating the roots of the hair in Tecni.Art Pli, he accentuated the natural lifts, kicks and flicks around the hairline. At the back, he layered in Wild Stylers Savage Panache to achieve a “grittier, more urban” texture. Lengths were tied in a ponytail, flicked and twisted into a bun – whilst a spritz of Tecni.ART Texture Dust kept hairline baby hairs standing to attention to complete the “English rose” feel from the front.
At Palmer Harding, so too Stephen Low of Neville Salon created a half-up style with beautifully understated soft, natural movement. Inspire by the floaty layers of the collection, he blow-dried Techi.Art Volume Architect into the hair, parting it in the centre. Having separated the top section of hair from ear-to-ear, he added a baggy knot, leaving the lengths to hang loose and free. A smidgen of Tecni.ART Liss Control and a misting of Infinium Hairspray finished this, pretty double-layered style.
J. W. Anderson
Tripping off the tongues of session stylists, the words “youthful”, “natural” and “effortless” were repeated time and time again. “This is a key trend that we’ve already seen in New York,” said Anthony Turner backstage at J.W. Anderson. Here, Turner imagined “little rich girls with skateboards”, creating beautiful hair with an easy, finger-dried texture. Adding a hint of sportiness via a flicked, low side parting his vision was for the girls to simply look like a better version of themselves. Having prepped hair with Tecni.ART Pli, he added a gorgeous quality to it by applying Mythic Oil to the mid-lengths and ends.
Finally, we were thrown back to the 90’s at Pa5h where crimped hair made a comeback. “We wanted the girls’ hair to look a little grunge; like they had just gotten out of bed following night-in playing with crimpers,” Johanna Cree Brown of Trevor Sorbie described. A selection of products created the look: Tecni.ART Fresh Dust and Beach Waves to add texture and Fix Move and Infinium to complete the look, providing hold and shine.
DAY 1: FASHION WEEK SS17
SS17 hair is, by nature, a story of softness, effortlessness and ease – and as Day One at Fashion Week demonstrated, this season is unlikely to prove the exception. Out in force once more, the L’Oréal Professionnel session stylists have dusted off their hairdryers and will be the authority on which trends women will be showcasing next season.
“Masculine but beautiful” was how Bianca Tuovi of CLM described the Teatum Jones SS17 woman. Keeping hair simple and boyish, she added a high shine finish with Tecni.ART Glue then swept the hair into a deep side parting. Saturating it with Tecni.ART Wet Domination Shower Shine gave it an almost “sweaty” finish – as if she’d been out raving. Then there was beauty to be found in the detail: At the base of a low ponytail, she added a one-inch fishtail braid before letting the ends hang loose.
“Young, carefree and natural” was how Stephen Low of the Neville Salon described the SS17 Eudon Choi girl. Taking his cue from late photographer, Francesca Woodman’s images of whimsical, dreamy girls, Low mimicked this sense of naivety in the style of the hair. Having prepped it with Tecni.ART Pli and finger-dried the lengths, he used a medium-sized tong to create natural-looking bends half way down, leaving the roots and tips free. A smidgen of Tecni.ART Liss Control kept tips gently in order, whilst a light misting of Tecni.ART Morning After Dust added texture to the roots. Freeing a few flyaways during the line-up, Low successfully perfected the art of the beautiful understatement.
Continuing the theme over at DAKS, Low once again imagined a girl who had done her own hair: A sense of easy nonchalance prevailed. To add seemingly natural texture to the hair, he prepped it with Tecni.ART Volume Architect, raking it back from the face to leave random finger marks. A mid-height ponytail, twist and flip of the ends later and a tousled twist appeared. Finished with tiny amounts of Tecni.ART Liss Control and Infinium Hairspray, it was as if this girl had simply thrown up her hair herself.
At Ong-Oaj Pairam, Cristiano Basciu of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa time travelled back to the early nineties, drawing inspiration from the free spirited “Thelma and Louise rocker girl”. To achieve spiral curls, he prepped the hair in Tecni.ART Full Volume Mousse before rough-drying and adding Infinium Hairspray to roots. Tonging hair all over, he finished with a misting of Wild Stylers Next Day Hair to create an undone, messy texture.
Typical Freaks however, bucked the trend for summer simplicity with Mark Woolley of Electric Salon at the helm. To create the requisite “worn, undone texture”, he used Tecni.ART Pli to smooth the hair and add grip. “Awkward”, uneven partings made at random angles were used to section the hair, before it was tied off with bits of ribbon and old curtain. Adding rope twists to the lengths, he finished with Tecni.ART Texture Dust, Tecni.ART Air Fix and Infinium Hairspray for the perfect worn-in texture.
Looking back at Fashion Week AW16
DAY 1: FASHION WEEK AW16
Raising the curtain call on AW16 was Adam Reed of Percy & Reed salons – leading the team at J. JS Lee. Using irons to add natural texture – rather than flattening lengths - he prepped hair with Infiniuim Hairspray, adding a little Tecni.ART Fix Deviation Paste afterwards. Binding hair into a breathtakingly simple, mid-height ponytail, he pinned a black tassel in at the right-hand side. A chic but irreverent accessory that surely encapsulates the spirit of London style.
The ‘young and natural’ texture continued at Eudon Choi under the direction of Stephen Low of Neville Salon. Wet Domination Shower Shine Spray lent roots a structured feel – while Tecni.ART Pli bestowed a beautiful softness upon lengths. A juxtaposition that mirrored the contrastingly relaxed and more tailored elements of the collection itself.
Contrasting textures seemed on course to become a trend as the day wore on and Mark Wooley revealed his Jessie Western hair. A subtle, dual textured look came out to play with Tecni.ART Pli and Crystal Gloss creating the requisite sleek finish at the root – while a misting of Tecni.ART Air Fix over lengths helped them retain a more natural movement.
So to Clio Peppiatt, where Jonny Engstrom from the Guy Kremer salon added weight to the hair by drying in Tecni.ART Pli and Tecni.ART Volume Architect before splitting it into a centre part. Here again, structured roots coated in Vaseline provided the perfect foil to soft lengths dusted with Tecni.ART Super Dust.
Adam Reed masterminded a beautiful swirly bun inspired by 1933 film, Victor and Victoria at DAKS. Using Infinium Hairspray Extra Strong and Metallic Gloss to mould the hair around the head, he tied it in a low pony before swirling it into a graphic shape and tidying the neckline with a toothbrush laced with Crystal Gloss.
Jonathan Soons from Headmasters went down the up do path at John Smedley. Prepping hair with Tecni.ART Pli and Metallic Gloss, he flattened it into a middle parting and split the lengths into two ponies whose tails were bound together in a twist on the classic bun.
The trend for up dos continued later in the day at Yana Chervinska with Darren Fowler at the hair helm. ‘Wet, young, fresh and sculpted’ was the call to action for the hair team, who slicked hair back into a high pony, leaving wisps free at the front. Dousing the hair in Tecni.ART Pli, they wrapped the tail around the pony base and tonged the hairline wisps, pulling them through with their fingers to add a hint of rawness.
Later at Little Shilpa, Engstrom gave us a lesson in the art of hat hair: Having been blow-dried smooth, hair was doused with Wet Domination Shower Shine Spray then smoothed into a sleek low pony that nestled neatly beneath those hats.
‘Hauntingly mysterious and elegant’ was how Cristiano Basciu of the Richard Ward salon described the look at Ong Oaj Pairam. With Wild Stylers Savage Panache, Wild Stylers Next Day Hair, Tecni.ART Super Dust and Infinium Hairspray to hand, Basciu created curls that could be worn up and tousled for the day – then let loose by night.
Then what better way to end the day than with a super dose of Adam Reed’s inventiveness at ON/OFF? Here, London’s trademark creativity came to the fore with three strikingly different looks. Look one was Bananarama 80s hair, raked back to the nape with Wet Domination Shower Shine Spray – then let loose at the back. Banarama met Pre-Raphaelites as look two emerged: Using floristry wire as giant pins, hair was set around them with irons and unleashed into soft, nineteenth century ripples. Finally, look three took on the urban edge of the street. Picking up on last season’s love of ‘individuality’, Reed based each look on models’ own style – adding a worn-in, rock chick texture.
DAY 2: Fashion Week AW16
Adam Reed kicked off day two at Barbara Casasola with a look that told the story of how the designer's typically cool but serious girl has evolved over the past few seasons. To lend the look a beautiful simplicity, he used only Tecni.ART Pli - warming it in his hands and pressing it into the hair for a relaxed, DIY feel. The end look was a bent-over pony with a homemade elastic cinching in the tail midsection as the detail.
The devil was similarly in the detail at J.W. Anderson for Anthony Turner. Running with the theme of previous seasons, Turner envisaged a woman so perfect that she adopted an eerie, otherworldly quality. Prepping the roots of hair with Tecni.Art Pli, he blow-dried Tecni.ART Volume Riche Mousse onto the top section, sweeping it backwards as he went. A lick of Mythic Oil and a misting of Infinium on the lengths added a super shiny, reflective quality to the ends. Leaving the models’ ears poking out provided a small detail that lent this otherworldly beauty a cyber, space-age feel for AW16.
From outer space to a Las Vegas Rodeo at Roberta Einer, where Vanessa Essack and the Paul Edmonds artistic team mirrored the beauty of the fabrics in the quality of the hair. Tecni.ART Pli and Tecni.ART Density Material were worked into the root with the hands to create a softer than soft texture – before hair was tied into a ponytail in a look that Vanessa summer up as ‘undone and elegant’.
At Palmer Harding, Stephen Low of Neville Salon again prepped hair in Tecni.ART Pli, backcombing the roots to create hold, shape – and flyaway pieces that made for a disheveled feel. It was effortless, it was natural – a low, loose pony at the neck gave the illusion of hair being tucked into one of the high neck tops of the collection.
Finally, to the ever zany Zandra Rhodes. Bianca Tuovi played with the individual beauty of each girl. So one drifted down the runway with a tonged, brushed-out, fluffy texture – another adopted an elegant bun with soft, face-framing pieces falling out. If anything, it confirmed that Zandra is always iconic!
DAY 3: FASHION WEEK AW16
From super simple to super theatrical, day three at Fashion Week AW16 was a game of two halves.
Super simple was served up by Sam McKnight at Anya Hindmarch – who used the elaborately futuristic set of the show as a counterbalance to hair that felt organic, healthy, young and very fresh. Using Tecni.ART Constructor to protect hair from heat before kissing it with a tong, he added a smidgen of Tecni.ART Liss Control to dry ends to create the appearance of health and shine. Like so many shows this season, this was a look that took what each individual girl had naturally – and simply turned up the volume.
Stephen Low took a similarly low-key approach at David Koma, drawing inspiration from the clean lines of the collection to create a soft, natural wave. Prepping the hair with Wild Stylers Beach Waves, he wound it into two buns and dried it with a diffuser before unpinning it and letting it fall in a gentle ripple.
A slightly more ‘70s wave made its debut at Huishan Zhang under the direction of Bianca Tuovi. Brushed-out and expensive looking, hair was prepped in Wild Stylers Crepage de Chignon and finished with Wild Stylers Scruff Me and Tecni.ART Super Dust.
Super theatrical on the other hand, came in the form of the Mary Katranzou look. Here, Duffy mimicked the star shapes in the main collection, recreating it in a cleverly sculpted front section of the hair. Blow-drying hair flat with Tecni.ART Pli, he applied Tecni.ART Fix Design to the top section, splitting the hair from the crown to each ear. Saturating the very front section in Tecni.ART Glue, he pulled it forward over the face before using chopsticks to square each side off at a right angle and take it back towards the ear. Creative, graphic and original – to complement the starry fringe, Duffy kept the back lengths long, loose and pretty.
So too at Tophshop Unique, the usual whimsical theatricality with hints of the ‘80s appeared in spades as Anthony Turner envisaged a girl gang getting ready to go to an extreme club night. Using Tecni.ART Full Volume Mousse, Tecni.ART Pli and Infinium Hairspray as his three key products, he gave each girl her own individual look – boosting and fluffing crazy curls here, or adding a fantastical quiff there. This was no inhibitions hair – that was hell bent on partying.
DAY 4: Fashion WEEK AW16
Day four of Fashion Week AW16 and the end was in sight. If ‘young’, ‘fresh’ and ‘natural’ have tripped off the lips of hair stylists time and time again, today was a day that celebrated the ornate and over the top. Anthony Turner's hair always has a story behind it - and this season at Peter Pilotto was no exception. Taking his cue from the designer's visions of the Icelandic landscape moving through the seasons, Turner created an ethereal, bejewelled look with undertones of paganism. Prepping hair in a mixture of Wild Stylers Beach Waves and Tecni.ART Pli, he dried hair, using his fingers to create natural movement. Braiding two small sections from the ear to the hollow at the back of the head, he added Infinium Hairspray and Tecni.ART Fresh Dust to the remaining lengths to create a fluffy, weathered texture. The pièce de résistance was a twinkling Swarovski choker sewn into the braids to accentuate the back section - and confirm 'hair jewellery' as one of this season's prettiest, most significant trends.
A new wave crimp from Duffy completed the day at Joseph. Still homemade and worn-in, Duffy ran with a club kid reference, using an entire can of Tecni.Art Volume Lift on each girl before blasting the hair dry. Having crimped the whole head, he split the front into three sections and used a large curling tong to bend each one away from the face. A hefty dose of Infinium Extra Strong followed on the lengths that were then brushed out and secured in a side pony at the back.